
Davina asks…
Someone PLZ help me tp choose the right digital piano for me?
M-Audio DCP-300 Digital Console Piano cost $1099
•16 high-quality sounds (acoustic pianos based on Steinway Model D Concert Grand, two vintage electric pianos, FM electric piano, clav, harpsichord, church organ, rock organ, strings, upright bass, electric bass, vibes, choir, fantasia, warm synth pad)
•88-notes realistic TruTouch II graded hammer-action keybed to reproduce the look and feel of acoustic piano keys
•Four keybed touch modes (low, normal, hi, fixed)
•Stereo sound system with dual 20-watt amps, 5″ woofers and .75″ silk-dome tweeters
•Class-compliant USB-MIDI interface (compatible with USB 1.0, 1.1 and 2.0)
•Includes Sibelius First music notation software
•64-note maximum polyphony
•Built-in 2-track recording with 28,000-note memory
•Compatible with most standard MIDI music software
•16 demo songs
•dual headphone jacks and headphone hook
•Layer mode and Layer Volume
•Split Mode and Split Volume
•Master Volume and Tone controls
•Reverb and Chorus effect
•Metronome (2/2, 2/4, 3/4, 4/4, 5/4, 6/8, 7/8, 9/8, 12/8)
•Tempo (20-280BPM)
•Transpose (+/- 12 semitones)
•Octave shift (+/- 3 octaves)
•Pedal board with 3 pedals (soft, sostenuto, and sustain)
•Sliding key cover, modesty panel, and hinged music stand which folds flat for ideal positioning of laptop computer
•Elegant finish
M-Audio DCP-300 Digital Console Piano Specifications:
•Minimum System Requirements (PC)
•Windows XP SP2/Vista, 512MB+ RAM, 300MB hard disk space, CD-ROM drive
•Minimum System Requirements (Mac)
•Mac OS X 10.4.9 or later, or 10.5, 512MB+ RAM, 300MB hard disk space, CD-ROM drive
or
Yamaha YDP140 DIGITAL PIANO W/BENCH Features Cost $899:
•88 graded hammer- action keys
•64-note polyphony
•single-song recording capability
•6W of amplification per side
•6 distinct Voices
•Four types of reverb
•MIDI connectivity
•Duet-friendly twin headphone jacks
•Dark alder finish
•Includes a padded bench, a wood music rest, sliding key cover, pedal frame with three piano-style pedals and a modesty panel
admin answers:
If you realized the M-Audio has way more stuff to do than the yamaha. I would just get M-Aduio.(IT COST MORE CAUSE IT’S BETTER!!!!)DEFINITELY WORTH IT.

David asks…
A blow out OR a short?
Hello! I have a pair of Pioneer upright loudspeakers. They were in good working condition UNTIL during a test of my vintage SA-7800II integraded amp, in searching for a defect in the left chanell(no sound thus right chanell running mono to both speakers) two point stems were inadvertantly touched with a screwdriver tip resulting into a pretty powerful spark. The Unit itself is still fine but both speakers play now with a muffled transistor-radio-like sound with nothing amplified as normal. hooked up and tested to other amps both channels play on both speakers but with the sound mentioned above. Opening up the speaker case (cabinet) I tried to see if it was a shorted wire by aplying a new wire hooked to a separate amp and applied to the terminals inside the cabinet(old wires are obviously still attatched) got the same signal to speakers with non amplified effects. SO is this a short in the speaker itself as in the voice coil? If so, how do I access the voice coil? or is this a blown driver? the driver I see here are two stem terminals on a small tab of circuit board (vocab/sp?) with positive and negatives going to a wire coil spool connected to the cabinet. the terminals supply three speaker wires to tweeter, midrange, and woofer. could it be that spool? no visible damage to any of these. I have yet to see if there was a melt or a gap in the speakers voil coil which is my reasoning for wanting to access same. HOWEVER. if I didnt turn the full wattage up via the volume knob, a melt down wouldnt occur anyhow. Im thinking its either the wires….or the electrode/coil connected to the internal cabinet wall. anyone advise? afterall, I’m still gettin non distorted sound, just distant and muffled low/ If turn up the volume high- I hear the power and sound its trying to push but its akin to turning up a transistor radio up to high and holding it under a pillow.
Thanks~ rngr47, Osaka, JP.
admin answers:
The muffler blew out..funny as heck G..
Tell us another,a regular laugh riot.

Charlie asks…
Why am I getting a weak output signal from my pedalboard/guitar?
I recently purchased a lot of pedals; ibanez tuner, crybaby wah, rogue vintage compressor, boss super overdrive, danelectro eq, mxr phase 90, danelectro tremelo, and a rogue analog delay. My pedals are set up in this order in my pedal chain which I think is correct from what I’ve read. When I first plug in and start playing, the signal is really good, but then it slowly starts to fade until when I switch to a clean channel there’s no sound at all and on overdrive it’s very weak. All of my pedals have new batteries in them and I think that running a large amount of pedals like that on batteries could be the problem. I wanted to ask the world before I went out and bought a power supply so I hope you respond! By the way, I’ve tried the pedals on two different amps so I know it’s not the amp.
PLEASE HELP!
admin answers:
Dude..buy a Multi-Meter to check the condition of your batteries..
That’s it for starters..
I would say..get the proper power supply–rather than use batteries..
I’ve owned a single pedal..and sometimes I would mis-read the ON/OFF Button..
..or just bumping it would turn it on..
If the Pedal has a input for an AC/DC Cube..use the Cube.
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