Tips, Tricks, Answers and Solutions,

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You state that you *think* it was damaged in transit and that you *think* the taxi driver is at fault.

The law is more concerned over whether or not you can *prove* any of your claims. Doing this, if possible, probably costs more than the amplifier. Perhaps you should just not buy a cheap one next time.

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Doesn’t matter. The 6 volt winding is used to heat the filament, so polarity is irrelevant, and the other is rectified to make DC, so again, doesn’t matter.

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My freind has one of those and likes it i hear there ok not best not worst

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Since it is silver, more than the gold looking ones. And thats a cornet. To Travis this is not always true whether it is silver, gold, brass, or Rose brass that may not effect the price as much as you would think usually an intruments price is based on the sound quality.

You truly didnt give enough information if you look closely you should be able to find a serial number on one of your outer valves 1st or 3rd that serial # if you put it into a search engine like yahoo should find mainly that type of trumpet and you can find their prices that way. Because on the weril website the trumpets range from $141-2,000

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The best thing you could do is go to a guitar store and test drive a bunch of different guitars, since each one will have its own sound and feel. Since you’re a beginner, you’ll probably want a guitar with a thin neck and low action (the distance between the strings and the fretboard), since those things will make it easier to move around comfortably between notes and chords.

Ibanez makes fantastic guitars that are built like rocks, sound great, and are often nicer than guitars costing twice as much. They’ve also got really thin necks and low action. Fender and Squier by Fender guitars are also great, user-friendly guitars. Epiphone makes great, affordable guitars, as well, though the necks are rather fat and that can make them challenging to play. Since one person’s dream guitar is another’s nightmare, it’s always good to see how different brands and different models feel in your hands before deciding.

If you want to do some research, Musician’s Friend is a great resource. You can search by brand, price or customer rating. Guitarists also post instrument reviews that will give you a good idea which guitars are great players and which ones have “issues” that could make them difficult or impossible to play or keep in tune. Here’s a link:

http://guitars.musiciansfriend.com/electric-guitars

The most important thing is to choose a guitar that feels really natural in your hands. Everyone swears his/her favorite guitar is the best one, but if one guitar suited everyone, there wouldn’t be so many brand names and models available. Trust your instincts, since the way your guitar feels to you is more important than the name on the headstock. The more comfortable you are with your guitar, the more you’ll practice and the sooner you’ll become a great guitarist.

Kustom amps are really cool. They were really popular in the ’70s and then vanished for years before reappearing a while ago, since lots of guitarists were in the market for vintage and retro amps. And there are a lot of Kustom amps from the ’70s still in circulation, which indicates they’re built to last. A pretty cool thing to find in your garage! Good luck!

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I don’t know anything about Maxturbo amps, so I can’t help you there, but in general yes, absolutely, a better amp makes a huge difference to your tone! A great guitar into a crappy amp will sound way worse than a crappy guitar into a great amp…

I owned a Warlock, not a fan at all. Pickups are muddy, and the vintage trem liked going out of tune a little too much for my comfort. That said, I can’t say that I think the Dean is much better… My personal take on it is that for your first guitar, getting one with a whammy bar isn’t a good idea – they throw your tuning off pretty easily, and a floating trem (ie the Floyd Rose) makes changing strings and retuning a real PITA.

They both look pretty sexy, which is why I bought the Warlock myself, all those years ago. I have an LTD now, and I’m much happier – better balance of sound, even if it doesn’t look quite so deliciously evil!

Depending on your style, I think that LTD, Epiphone, Jackson, and Ibanez make some very good guitars in that price range – I’d suggest that you look around a little more.

Use your ears of course, and pay attention to how comfortable it is to actually play the guitar. If it doesn’t feel natural to hold, then it’s not the right guitar for you! That’s what finally killed the Warlock for me… The neck was too fat! I began to realize that it was so thick that it was actually slowing me down. I went to a Jackson, sped way up, but realized that Jackson necks were a little too *thin* for me, made my hands hurt. Ended up with LTD, somewhere in between…

Good luck!

Saul

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Maybe you should just buy the line 6 cabins. They’re around 380 bucks i think. If you want a line 6 head, they make them in 75 watts, and 150 watts. The 75 watt one has the same features and knobs as the 30 watt amp so i’d say you’d be pretty familliar with it. The 150 watt though has more knobs and features, like a tuner, a screen, and a lot of preset settings. Yea i agree, line 6 amps are definetly underrated. I told my friend i’d take a line 6 over a marshall any day, he just gave me a death stare lol
btw

75w head- $299
150w head- $499
depends on your local music store. Thought i’d just throw that in there, just if your interested. And if you get a line 6 head, make sure you buy a cabinet thats ONLY 4 ohms, or else according to line 6, the head will overheat and shut it self down to prevent any furthure damage, according to my line 6 manual.

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Not a fan of either but ibanez are way better. I prefer Esp, and schecter.
And dimarzio are NOT the best, Seymour Duncan, and Emg are way better.

Mikey, u mean Art 100?…. Jackass…..

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You should go with the 35 watt

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65

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Gibson

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Mmm… Have you tried using a noise gate to reduce that buzz? I find it necessary to put one at the end of my effects loop because I run 10 or so pedals.

Most compressors work fine to really sustain your notes. I personaly like MXR overdirve pedals. My fav if the double shot distortion because it’s got two channels which you can set a rythem and lead sound….

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12 volts input or output?
12 volts AC or DC?
700 ma AC or DC?
700 ma input or output?

I received your email. I was unable on the web to determine the answers to the above. I believe I can lead you to a power supply that will do the job, but I need to know if it plugs into the wall outlet: 120 volts AC input, and if the 12 volts to the equipment is AC or DC. And if the current of 700 ma is the input or the output, before I can give the correct answer. See if the link below helps.

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Some rock and blues will not require a pedal like that. Get a blues driver, or a maxxon od-808 or Ibanez ts-9. I prefer the tone you get from a tube amp, then if you need more, to add in with a little overdrive pedal. Another thing you can do is get a compressor/sustainer pedal, like a Boss CS-2 or modded CS-3, and also to get an EQ pedal like an MXR 10 band EQ.

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Distortion pedals dont make much of a difference in sound as long as settings are right. I used a high end boss pedal (metal box) and a 15 dollar dan electro one, and got them both to sound exactly the same. As a matter a fact, i chose the 15 dollar danelectro one as a part of my rig now.
Regardless if its a more expensive pedal you want with a good metal sound, i suggest an ibanez pedal. Not only does it have an incredable high gain level, it also has a special noise reduction switch which cancels out any other sound that comes from your guitar. Its only 40-80 dollars depending on where you get it.

But if its still a boss you want, i suggest the two main pedals they have, the boss ds1 or the metal box. Both are equally good, and artists use them. The ds01 goes for around 40 and the metal box goes for 80-90.

Ps, i too play metallica, ozzy, etc etc, and im using a 15 dollar danelectro fab metal pedal. If you want to know how the different pedals sounds, go to www.guitarcenter.com or www.samash.com and www.musiciansfriend.com – they usually have audio clips and demos of the pedals on the product pages.

Also, if your into metal, you shouldnt have really started with a squire to begin with.

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I would not recommend that. Here is why. You’re buying a $200 keyboard. True that Yamaha sound is better than any other inexpensive keyboard, I have one. But, you want to combine that with a $465 guitar synthesizer. The HOG is ok, but does not compare to any Roland or BOSS effect for sound. So, you’re about to spend $665. It is doubtful that the Yamaha keyboard output will even match up with the HOG input specification. So, it’s possible that the Yamaha, if it does not match up, will damage the HOG over time. Now what else could you by for you almost $700 investment. Well, believe it or not, you could probably buy a Roland Juno-G synthesizer workstation (I have one of those too) for around that price and you would be purchasing a synth engine that is equal to the same synth engine found in the $3000+ Roland Fantom Synthesizer. That’s right! Buying the Roland Juno-G was by far the very best investment I ever made in musical instrument. Just read about how awesome the Juno-G really is! Http://www.rolandus.com/products/productdetails.php?ProductId=756 – I know what you’re thinking. It only has 61-keys. That bothered me too until I played it. I wanted an 88-key keyboard but, settled for a 76-key Yamaha. When I discovered the Juno-G I just had to have it at that price. The Juno-G has an octave up and octave down button that can raise or lower the entire keyboard up or down three octaves, That gives you a total range of 133 keys that cover the full range of the human ear. More than three octaves greater than an 88-key keyboard. My advise is to go play a Juno-G. Then see what kind of deal you can swing on a new one and if that is out of your price range, take a look at a good used one. There are a lot of used Juno-Gs out there.

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I don’t know much about guitars and guitar-related things. But my boyfriend has a Roland/BOSS GT-8 and his friend a Roland/BOSS GT-10.
Great pedals that you can do a LOT with- his friend also has a Delay pedal.

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If the tv is ran by 110v then you will need an inverter if its 12v and they didnt leave the plug then you can make your own wiring either to a cigarette plug or wire it to the fuse box.yes the phone line is for a remote bass control that went to the amp.is he going to wire up a dvd player ,ps 2 or a vcr?is the tv a flip down or in the headrest or just strapped or conected to the headrest.give me more info and i’ll help you more.

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Pretty much any aftermarket set of speakers would sound much better then stock.. Stock speakers are usually around 15-30 watts..

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Skullcandy sucks. Do you really think that in any serious recording studio where sound engineers are using $20,000 Dynaudio, JBL, Foacal, Adam speakers, that they’re going to use Skullcandy as monitor headphones. Do me a favour!

Do you think guitarist from iron maiden, rolling stones, rage against the machine, incubus are all using Skullcandy headphones in the studio. What a joke!

This is hard as my friend who spent two years setting up £100,000 – 200,000 systems in some very exclusive homes is also a mad guitar fan…. And he loves Beyerdynamic headphones. However I like beyers, but I lean more towards commercial headphones such as Sennheiser, Ultrasone, AKG.

I’m thinking about studio headphones for you. You might want to look at Audio-Technica ATH-M50 headphones, they’re the latest fad at the moment. Although for me I didn’t get on with the Shure SRH880 headphones, I think you might want to look at the Shure studio headphone range.

I’ve owned a pair of Roland RH50 headphones and they are quite studio based headphones.

Again you could look at AKG headphones. I thought my AKG K171 MKII were brilliant, however they set your ears on fire…. They ran really hot. Maybe look at the bigger AKG K272 headphones.

Http://portal.fakeheadphones.com/index.php?topic=547.msg1874#msg1874

The thing is you have to match the headphones to your needs. Monster, Bose, Sennehsier and the like are very commercial based headphones. They’re for the ipod generation. Huge exagerated bass and highs. Studio phones have more of a flat response which i think might be good for you.

I’m also thinking about IEM’s. Again Shure are good for ‘monitoring’ your music. Westone UM range is also good.

Anyway, personally Skullcandy are for people who don’t know anything about headphones, Monster are for bass heads who also don’t know much about headphones … Although i thought the Lady Gaga earphones were good. But some studio headphones are very good performers and will give you true sound not commercial sound, which for you i think is very important.

In my experience of having owned over 100 headphones in the last 3 years, i’d say look at studio headphones, or proper IEM’s, and not the like of Sennheiser CX earphones.

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Hi Prof, how’s it goin?

The new Sonic Youth album “Eternity.”

The new Polvo – Beggar’s Bowl

http://www.mergerecords.com/audio/polvo/inprism/beggarsbowl.mp3

Hope you like them Prof!

____________________________________________

Prof, glad you liked the Polvo tune. I liked it pretty good. I think it’s one of those songs you have to listen to a few times. I haven’t hear the rest of the album. Free mp3′s are always nice, though.

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Elie Wiesel is amazing. I have seen him speak twice and have read most of his books. If your asking us to do your homework for you…read the book. It’s short and it’s well written (sad though). No one should do your World Religions homework for you though.

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Your Question is simple…please visit

http://hubpages.com/hub/Best-chemistry-website-for-high-school-students

and u will get your answer

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‘In its historically original form, Ampère’s Circuital Law relates the magnetic field to its electric current source. The law can be written in two forms, the “integral form” and the “differential form”. The forms are equivalent, and related by the Kelvin-Stokes theorem.’

∇×B=μ0.J

∮B.dr=μ0.I

In the integral form: – The law states that the line integral of the field B around any closed path is equal to the constant μ0 times the current flowing thought the area enclosed by the path.

In the differential form: – The law relates the field B at a point to the current density at that point. By introducing a potential A for the B field it is possible to derive the Biot-Savart law: -

B(r) = (μ0.I/4.π).∮dl’ x (r – r’)/(r – r’)³

However, ‘there are two important issues regarding Ampère’s law that require closer scrutiny. First, there is an issue regarding the continuity equation for electrical charge. There is a theorem in vector calculus that states the divergence of a curl must always be zero. Hence
∇•(∇×B) = 0

and so the original Ampère’s law implies that

∇•J = 0.

But in general

∇•J = −∂ρ/∂t,

which is non-zero for a time-varying charge density. An example occurs in a capacitor circuit where time-varying charge densities exist on the plates.

Second, there is an issue regarding the propagation of electromagnetic waves. For example, in free space, where

J = 0,

Ampère’s law implies that

∇×B = 0, but instead ∇×B = −(1/c²) ∂E/∂t.

To treat these situations, the contribution of displacement current must be added to the “free current” term in Ampère’s law.

James Clerk Maxwell conceived of displacement current as a polarization current in the dielectric vortex sea, which he used to model the magnetic field hydrodynamically and mechanically. He added this displacement current to Ampère’s circuital law at equation in his 1861 paper On Physical Lines of Force.’

‘In his 1865 paper A Dynamical Theory of the Electromagnetic Field Maxwell used this amended version of Ampère’s Circuital Law to derive the electromagnetic wave equation. This derivation is now generally accepted as an historical landmark in physics by virtue of uniting electricity, magnetism and optics into one single unified theory.

Displacement current applies not only to material media, but to free space as well.

The electric displacement D field is defined as:

D = ε0E + P

where:

ε0 is the permittivity of free space
E is the electric field intensity
P is the polarization of the medium

Differentiating this equation with respect to time defines the displacement current, which therefore has two components in a dielectric:

J(D) = ε0.∂E/∂t + ∂P/∂t

The first term on the right hand side is present in material media and in free space. It doesn’t necessarily involve any actual movement of charge, but it does have an associated magnetic field, just as does a current due to charge motion.

The second term on the right hand side is associated with the polarization of the individual molecules of the dielectric material. Polarization results when the charges in molecules move a little under the influence of an applied electric field. The positive and negative charges in molecules separate, causing an increase in the state of polarization P. A changing state of polarization corresponds to charge movement and so is equivalent to a current.

This polarization is the displacement current as it was originally conceived by Maxwell. Maxwell made no special treatment of the vacuum, treating it as a material medium. For Maxwell, the effect of P was simply to change the relative permittivity εr in the relation

D = εrε0 E.’

Thus, the Maxwell corrected version(s) of Ampère’s circuital law becomes

∇×B=μ0.J+μ0.ϵ0.∂E/∂t
∮B.dr=μ0.I+μ0.ϵ0. ∂φ/∂t.

To calculate the magnetic field from the equations consider, first, the differential equation form: -

∇×B=μ0.J+μ0.ϵ0.∂E/∂t

Now, consider a solenoid of radius r with N turns in a length l. The solenoid is air filled and the B field value is required for the region contained within the coil. With an alternating current field

I =I0.sin(ω.t)

Where ω is the angular frequency passing through a solenoid of N turns and initially neglecting the displacement current, we have: -

B = μ0.N.I = μ0.N.I0.sin(ω.t) (Biot-Savart law)

If we now consider the displacement current and compare it to the conduction current. If the solenoid has a radius of r then from Faraday’s law (E = (A/l).∂B/∂t) the induced electric field E is: -

E = -(1/(2.π.r)).∂(πr².μ0.N.I0.sin(ω.t)/∂t

Hence

E = -(1/2).ω.μ0.N.I0.cos(ω.t).r

Thus, the electric displacement is term μ0.ϵ0.∂E/∂t is: -

μ0.ϵ0.∂E/∂t = -(1/2).ω².ϵ0.μ0.N.I0.sin(ω.t).r

Thus the total displacement current through the solenoid loop of length l is: -

= -(1/2).ω².ϵ0.μ0.N.I.l ∫r.dr

And, thus, the ratio of the displacement current to the conduction current through the solenoid loop of radius r is: -

ω².ϵ0.μ0.r²/4

at f = 1 MHz for r = 0.1 m, this ratio is about 10¯⁶ (10^-6) and so the contribution to the magnetic field inside of the solenoid due to the displacement current is small. Hence,

B = μ0.N.I = μ0.N.I0.sin(ω.t) (Biot-Savart)

holds to a reasonable accuracy! The integral approach gives an immediate answer, since μ0 ϵ0 ∂φ/∂t may be ignored!

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Good luck<3

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Music is Art and art often reflects the world around the artist. I’m not sure that 70′s is more nuclear because of the Cold War as the hight of Nuclear talk in popular culture was probably in the 1950′s. The 1970′s you had a lot of anti-war ant-nuclear anything hippies… It’s best to try and forget those people IMHO.

BQ. The reason amps sound different is due to a lot of factors. Usually these factors all come down to how the circuit “distorts” the signal. Even a “clean” sound has some distortion due to the electronics. The biggest difference is amps that use Vacuum Tubes vs. Transistors (aka Solid State). Vacuum tubes tend to distort or ad harmonics in a way that is pleasing to the human ear. Solid state components tend to do the opposite by emphasizing harmonics/distortion that does not sound good to the human ear. There is a lot of information on the web that talks about this subject. IMO you just can’t do better than Vacuum Tubes for audio… Many many reasons that would take too long to answer here.

BQ2. Electronic Music 101 (whatever the number was)

BQ3. Well… I work on new computers for a large company in Silicon Valley… Oh and I own a business that sells Vacuum Tubes (does this make my answer biased?)

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If your fender has a signal output jack then run a 3/4 inch jack out to the input of the back of the marshall cabinet.

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Yes you can, i did it and it works flawless

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You certainly can run one amp in to multiple cabinets, but I can’t find any pictures online that clearly show the inputs and outputs of that specific head and Marshall cabinet.

Normally, there are two ways to do it. Most cabinets have “parallel inputs”, meaning that there are two quarter inch jacks right next to each other, and each functions as either an input or an output. So for most cabinets, you could just run a 1/4″ cable from your amp head into one input on the cab, and then run another 1/4″ cable from the second parallel input into the next cab. This is called “daisy chaining”, and it will run the same signal at the same volume through both cabs.

The other way you can do this is if there are multiple outputs on the amp head. Sometimes an amp head will let you run channel one to one cabinet, and then channel two to a separate cabinet, then you can use your channel select to switch back and forth between them. Again, I couldn’t find any pictures of the outputs on your particular head, so i can’t say for sure if the AC30HH will let you do that.

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Not at all. Just make sure the head is powerful enough (enough watts) to power the cab. Marshall AVT heads sound beautiful threw a Mesa Boogie 4X4.

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Wow… You’re really asking for the sun, moon, and the stars all in one question!

No amp will do it all. You have to choose between an amp that will sound great belting it out super loud, or an amp that will sound good at lower volumes.

The reason is that there is always a sweet spot – with tube amps, for instance, the sweet spot is when the power tubes start saturating. What that means is that a 100w tube amp won’t sound reeeeally good until you’re using most of those 100 watts. Since you get most of your volume in the first 10 or 20 watts, that means that you have to crank that high-watt tube amp before it sounds really good. Trust me, I have one.

That’s why guitar players are always turning their amps up too loud – 100w amps got popular in the 70′s-80′s, and it’s been hell ever since for soundmen. Loud is actually *bad*… If you start bleeding into other mics on stage the sound guy can’t amplify those instruments without amplifying you… Which takes away from the sound. If you’ve been to any show where this has happened, you know what I’m talking about.

With solid state amps, they usually sound better before they hit their clipping – below their wattage rating. So diming a 15w solid state amp in a vain attempt to be a little louder will only trash the sound (and possibly damage the power amp).

My honest recommendation is to get a lower watt amp… Between 50 and 75 watts, and no more. This will give you an amp that will sound better at lower volumes, yet still have enough volume to fill a room, be heard over a drumset, etc. If you really end up concerned about volume, invest in some speakers with high sensitivity… Even a few db difference in a rating makes a huge difference in volume.

Do you want a good quality amp that will work well with pedals, or do you want an amp that has a bunch of stuff built into it, some of which you may not want? The problem with the built-in effects is that often they aren’t very good, unless you get a very high quality amp (a VHT combo, for instance, or a Line 6 Vetta).

Okay, as far as weight goes, tube amps are just about always heavier than solid state. Tubes are more finicky to maintain, you have to make sure to use the standby switch, and they don’t sound nearly as good quiet as they do cranked. They also sound very good. You can also swap out tubes to change the sound of your amp… This is a cool thing to do. Talk to a tech before you do it, so you know if you have to get it rebiased or not.

Carvin makes a few tube amps that I’ve heard aren’t very heavy, might want to check them out.

Solid state amps are usually far more dependable, lighter, no problems with impedance (did I mention that if you screw up your impedance with a tube amp you can blow your tubes or damage your amp?), and always give a consistent sound. The drawback is that they usually don’t have as good of a sound as a cranked tube amp. They sound better quieter, though, usually.

I like the Marshall MG series. A buddy of mine plays a 7-string Schecter with EMGs through it, and it sounds pretty frickin’ wicked. The onboard effects are primitive, but it interfaces well with pedals.

My Mesa Boogie TremoVerb eats it for breakfast, can be louder, is far more versatile as far as tone, and is pretty sweet. It also cost three times (not counting maintenance or repairs!) what my buddy’s MG cost him.

So, there you go.

Saul

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“Just try it”… Sure and then fry the output transformer. Really good advise … Not. The safest way to ruin a tube amp is to have too little load on the output. Too much load and it sounds cr**. Don’t even attempt to use anything else than what the labels say – that is unless you like to blow up the amp for good or have a very expensive repair job on your hands.

Like the other (knowledgeable) poster says – there’s a reason why it is labeled that way. The amp will work efficiently and safely when you stick precisely to what it says: 1×4 ohm cabinet, or 2×8 ohm cabinets, or 1×8 ohm cabinet, or 2×16 ohm cabinets, or 1×16 ohm cabinet in the corresponding speaker outs … No “and”.

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It will work perfectly. Wish I had it.

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$1.50

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Get a marshell stack 4 preforming get a line6 spider 3 15 watt combo 4 home

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Try Craigslist or www. Guitarcenter.com

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Hmm, for that price it won’t be a tube amp, nor an amp head plus cabinet, so it’ll have to be a digital modeling combo amp.

I have the Roland Cube 30x … It’s loud, has a great Mesa Dual Rectifier emulator, and is very solidly constructed. It can do all the bands you mentioned.

Other great alternatives include the Peavey Vypyr 30 and Vox Valvetronix AD30VT-XL … Read up reviews and prices on all these three amps and make your decision, I don’t think you can go wrong with any of them.

The Orange is a bit on the low quality side in terms overall quality. I’m not a fan of the Line 6 Spider either for similar reasons. The three amps mentioned above are better, IMHO.

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The amps those guys play.

AC/DC-marshall jcm 800 full stacks. Marshall makes practice amps.
Guns n Roses-these guys play marshalls too im pretty sure.
Eric clapton- youre gonna want a tube amp with some good ole tube overdrive for this guy.
Van halen – a peavey 5150. But that might be a lil expensive. Go with a roland micro cube, and set it on the rectifier setting.

Or you can just find an amp with a really clean, clean channel, and then buy effects pedals that match the tone of your favorite players.
I reccomend boss effects pedals, cause theyre made by roland.

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My friend has the Line 6 Spider IV 75 75-watt 1×12 Modeling Guitar Amplifier and it is simply awesome. The sound is awesome and its basically the best amp i have seen yet.

Here are some reviews:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002GYWBJ6?ie=UTF8&tag=bbalou-20&linkCode=as2&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B002GYWBJ6

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See if you can find a 9v Zener diode and look up “simple zener voltage regulator” for a diagram.

Here is a link http://hades.mech.northwestern.edu/images/7/74/Zener_voltage_regulator.gif

If it is high power then a “series voltage regulator” will be needed which requires a few more components e.g transistor

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Hello there,

Maybe this will give you some information on the amp.

Http://www.hpmemory.org/news/barney_ampl/barney_page_00.htm

Also, in this thread a guy says ihe has one version of the HP amp. He posts some pictures, but you have to become a member of the forum to see them. I am thinking someone on that forum may have a schematic or know where to get one. Might be worth joining to be able to ask the guys there.

Http://www.audiokarma.org/forums/showpost.php?p=1291108&postcount=118

Later,

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Bit of a specialised question for Yahoo Answers Have you had a look at the valve sections of www.audioasylum.com? There’s plenty of good advice there.

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The tube will give a slightly warmer tone due to the way a tube works (it loses some of the highs). It is best used for blues, r&b or classic rock sounds. It is harder to overdrive at lower volume levels than a solid state amp, so if you want crunch at lower levels, go with the solid state. Most manufacturers will still make tube amps today, but the tubes are usually only in the pre-amp stage with solid state as the main power amp. Check out http://www.carvin.com/ for their tube offerings.

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Wrong section. Reporting abuse, have a nice day

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6.3V heater voltage can be connected in any way between pin 4 and 5. It is an AC tube. To power its filament with DC makes no different and no polarity to be concerted. You need to make a converter to generate any voltage between +200V to +500V to supply its plate and cathode. Both pin 7 and 3 connects together then connect to ground zero volt (comes from negative side of 500V power source, not the 6V filament voltage) or via one resistor depending on your design. Class A amplifier usually does not need to use fix grid bias or even in class B. And never use fix bias for the pre-ampl or driver circuit. Use fix bias to power stage require fine tuning on circuit.

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There’s always the debate between valve and digital. Anway, there’s no good way that amp makers have found to make a good combination of the two.
Here’s my advice:
i have a peavey classic 30 and a fender HRD. Both all tube, except for the rectifier.
I also have a Korg AX3000G modeling signal processor. Which i use for amp modeling and simulated stompboxes.

admin answers:

The best amp for what you describe is definitely a 100 watt Marshall Super Lead head. They are the original marshall head design, and pack a huge punch, a very loud clean piercing sound. If you run a decent distortion pedal in to it with your Jackson, it will sound awesome.

These amps have 4 inputs, 2 pairs of inputs that is. You can plug into one or the other depending on the sound you want, or you can plug them into each other using a patch lead, and get one incredible tone (my prefered choice)

They are horrifically loud. They were the original amps that bands like motorhead used, and are still used today by many rock and metal artists. The valves glow beautifully and radiate much heat.

Give one a go, you will never go back. And if you are super rich I guess you could go for a mesa boogie, but that will cost much much more, and wont be much different.

admin answers:

It sounds like you need something on the order of a ECC81/12AT7. I’m assuming that you need the audio output valves and not the power supply valves. You don’t make that clear. You need to determine the valve voltage first. Check the other valve and see what they are. If they all run from 12 volts you should pick a 12 volt valve for the outputs. Get the numbers from the other valves. Many times the valves used in an amp are pretty standard. A certain set will be used so the other valves may give you an idea of what you need. You might be able to find the a schematic for your amp online. Check the make and model number. If you can find it, it will list the valve you need and make it simple for you.

admin answers:

Judging by your Q and your guitar you’re not as concerned with price as your are getting what you want. My advice is going to be get a 50 watt Marshall 2266C has all you asked for and 2×12″ Celestions ($1,800 U.S.). If you want to go bigger get the 100 watt head JCM 2000 ($1,400 U.S.) and a 4×12″ cab or two (about $500 U.S. Each). You can check ‘em out below.

admin answers:

I dont think the 15g is foot switch capable, youll have to upgrade to something like the frontman 25R for footswitch capabilities

admin answers:

It’s simply called an instrument cable. Every music store sells them. Here’s one example:

http://www.musiciansfriend.com/accessories/monster-cable-monster-rock-1-4-straight-instrument-cable

admin answers:

Make sure its tuned right and what kind of guitar do you have

admin answers:

Hello there,

If you are not trading those in, but just looking to sell them to Guitar Center, I don’t know that they will buy them. They only buy what inexpensive guitars they need for stock. Guitar Center sells used Frontman 15g amps for about $30 and the low end Squier Strats for about $49. They have to make a profit on what they sell. So you can expect 1/3 to 1/2 that amount if they buy them out right. They will allow more for trade ins than they will pay for an out right purchase.

Later,

admin answers:

E-bay has lots of great equipment (some used) for discounted prices. That’s where I get 75% of my musical equipment, now.

Also, try Fender.com… A little more expensive, but sure to ship to the UK

admin answers:

The fx loop on the amp is used to process the effect through the amp or not. Your effect controls etc. Will control the effect. The bias is used to reduce the squeal from the tubes set to your preference. Usually, if it doesn’t squeal or have weird noises, just leave it alone.

admin answers:

You shouldn’t have any problems. The fact that it’s a transistor amp really doesn’t have a thing to do with overloading the speakers- the difference is going to be in the tone you get.

Guitar amps will overload when a bass signal is sent through them because the speaker cone isn’t designed for bass frequencies at high levels. Working the other direction (guitar through bass amp) has exactly the opposite effect.

However, most bass speakers aren’t designed for optimum output at the higher frequencies your guitar can produce- as such, the tone you get may or may not be pleasing.

Depending upon the sound you’re going for, you may end up with something no one’s ever heard!

If you’re uncertain, experiment. Set the amp volume relatively low, and set your guitar at a normal playing volume. Do what you do (strum, shred, whatever) and listen for speaker distortion. Increase the volume until you get to playing level.

Keep in mind that the distortion you hear may result from the speaker’s inability to match the amps output, not neccessarily because it’s coming from a guitar.

admin answers:

I have never. But if it is free shipping, take a chance, might be well worth it, by chance the UPS guy probably lives in your neighborhood.it should be insured, get a guarantee

admin answers:

I bought this one and couldn’t be happier. I play a Fender Hot Rod Deluxe when gigging but I love this amp for home. There are no effects, but I think built in effects generally suck on cheaper amps so I just use a RAT distortion pedal with it and it kicks a$$.

Http://www.musiciansfriend.com/product/Epiphone-Valve-Jr-HalfStack?sku=481475

admin answers:

There have been volumes of text written on grounding, and after all of that there’s still a bit black magic to it.

I’m going to write in very broad terms here. Without knowing the exact amp and setup you have, I can’t give a specific diagnosis. But, I can talk about some of the common problems out there.

With electronic musicians (anyone who uses electricity), there are typically 2 kinds of grounding problems….power and audio.

When dealing with audio equipment, the rule is “Thou shalt only have one path to ground”. Here’s what I mean by that. Say you have your guitar amp plugged in (to a grounded outlet). And now, let’s say you decide to add a digital effects unit in the FX loop of the amp, and that effects unit is grounded as well. Guess what…you now have 2 ground paths (through the amp and the effects unit). Depending on the lengths of the cables and the distance between where they are plugged in, a current will start flowing through the ground. That usually shows up as a 60Hz or 120Hz hum. The best solution is to use an isolation transformer between the effects unit and amp (like the Ebtech Hum Eliminator). People will also use a ground lifter on the AC plug, but that’s not really safe. At the very least, make sure you plug both units into the same power strip…that will minimize the loop.

Audio grounding problems can again be ground loops, but more often than not the problems are lake of a ground. In this case, think of the ground as a shield around the signal wire that’s designed to channel noise and interference away from your signal lines. If there’s a break in that connection somewhere, the interference passes directly through the shield and onto the signal lines.

Buzzes are usually indicative of this. But, keep in mind that some guitars are more susceptible to picking up interference than others. If you’re guitar is a Strat style with single coil pickups on it, it’s going to have some amount of buzz in it. Other than tracking down the source of the noise (dimmers and fluorescent lighting are two common ones), then you have to look at modifying the guitar. Adding additional shielding to the control cavity helps, but the only way to completely stop it is to change out the pickups for noise-cancelling or humbucking versions.

Grounding and shielding problems aren’t always easy to solve, even for folks with years of experience. Good luck.

Greetings from Austin, TX

Ken

admin answers:

You can play a dynamic microphone straight into a guitar amplifier (but not a condenser mic.). All you need is the proper cable. They make XLR to 1/4″ cables.

To be a bit more professional, you should use a direct box with an XLR input and a 1/4″ output, in between the vocal mic and the guitar amp.

.

admin answers:

Firstly they’re not bad pickups you’ve got installed.
There are many variables to getting a ‘great’ tone from guitar/amp combo’s.
I have an Ibanez guitar – I use the stock standard pickups. I have a Fender Solid State Amp and a Marshall Tube Amp. I feel I get a great tone from both – but it depends on the type of music/style of music you’re playing.
A lot of well known players (or their guitar techs) will advise what type of gear they’re using – find a guitarist you like and see if you can get some info on his/her rig.

Have a look at: http://guitargeek.com/ this has a pretty good database of players rigs and other info.

Keep on playin’

admin answers:

I have a Line 6 Spider. It is a versatile, yet inexpensive amp, that can make lots of different sounds and sounds great when you are playing alone.

For playing live and loud with a band, I prefer tubes for the most authentic classic rock sound. They cost a lot more, but the groups you mentioned all use Marshall tube amps. Stacks (separate 50-100W head, with one or two 4×12″ speaker cabinets), not combos.

However, if you by chance think that cd’s sound as good as records, then the Line6 will probably fool your ears as well. If cd’s sound fake to you, then you will definitely want tubes.